Great question, right? Every machine quilter and quilter maker may or may not have a favorite batting, so I thought it would be great to ask a few longarm quilters what they think. I’ll chime in, too! You may be a longarm quilter, too. Or, maybe you’re here to read up on batting, which will help you know which batt to put in your next quilt. Either way, welcome! We’re glad you’re here.

Before we get started, I just want to note, that quality is key. No matter which batting you decide to use, please don’t get the cheapest prepackaged batt that you can find. Just like fabric, good quality batting is going to last and be so much better to cuddle up in. You know those quilts or blankets you can buy at the store, and that are cheap? You wash/dry them once, and the batting lumps up real bad. Yeah, poor quality is going to give you a poor result. If you take the time to make a beautiful quilt, and you pay to get it quilted, and you want it to last…please use a good quality batt, and your beautiful quilt can become a treasured family heirloom, that will last for generations.

Let’s talk batting! First off, I want to thank Jess, Molly, and Kimie for being willing to share with you and me, their thoughts and experiences with batting. I just asked them to share their thoughts, and I love the variety of brands, business side of it, and the do’s and don’ts they included. I hope this is a great resource for you! Below I’ll introduce to you some quilty friends, and they’ll share with you their favorites and go to tips about batting. If you have any follow up questions, please ask away, and we’ll do our best to answer them.

First up, meet Jess Zeigler who lives in Central Iowa and offers digital edge-to-edge quilting for her clients across the United States. Her business Threaded Quilting Studio now offers a membership experience called the Longarm League designed to come alongside other longarm quilters in support of their businesses. She can be found on Instagram @threadedquilting

Quilters Dream • I have not stocked any brands other than Quilters Dream batting, so my experience is specific to this company in some respects, but also general when it comes to fiber choices and general pricing methods. I stick with it because of its consistency and quality. I love that there is no minimum order required, too.

Types of fibers I stock • I regularly stock 100% cotton (natural, not bleached), 80/20 cotton/poly blend, and 100% poly all in queen-sized rolls, which are 93" wide (I feel like you get more like 96” usually). For the maybe 5% of quilt tops that I get from clients that require larger batting sizes, I order individual king sizes and not rolls.

Charging clients • I try to be in-line with what quilt shops charge for the price of the batting, which is usually double the wholesale cost.

I see a lot of people charge per yard, but what seems easier to me is breaking that cost down into a "per linear inch" factor so that I'm not converting any numbers and can accomodate to the inch instead of rounding it up or down.

When I measure & cut the batting off the roll, I use the width measurement of the quilt top + 5 inches, which gives me a margin of 2.5" on each side of the quilt when loaded. You might choose to cut more than that, but I've found this guideline to be a comfortable amount for me as long as I've made a straight cut from the roll. ;)

Example: If a quilt's dimensions are 56" x 74", I'd cut batting at 61" (56 + 5 extra inches) x width of the roll (93") and charge using the per inch multiplier.

Currently, I charge:

$0.36 per linear inch for 100% cotton ($21.96 in the example above)
$0.33 per linear inch for 80/20 cotton/poly blend ($20.13) and
$0.26 per linear inch for 100% poly ($15.86)

An exception that happens occasionally is if the length of the quilt top exceeds the batting width (93") but the width of a quilt does not. Example: A quilt top is 80" x 100". Instead of cutting according to the width (85" x 93" would come up short), I would cut 105" off the roll and use it "sideways" (93" x 105").

For a quilt that is 100" x 100", I would check to see if I have any individual king size batts in stock and if not, I'd place an order. The “new work request” form on my website addresses this so that I know ahead of time if a king size is needed. I'll usually order enough individual packages (you can mix and match sizes and types) so that a whole box is filled.

Helping Clients Choose • A lot of clients are 100% cotton people no matter what. That's perfectly okay with me as it makes the deciding easy! :) I was that way too before I started trying some other options.

I don't like to think of it as right and wrong choices. As long as you're sourcing quality batting, it's more a matter of preference and use of the quilt.

100% Cotton

I tell clients that the 100% cotton will shrink the most, it'll have the "flattest" look and will crinkle up nicely for them. For quilts used in the summer months or in a warm climate, cotton is probably the best option because it's the most breathable.

80/20 Cotton/Poly blend

I think that the 80/20 is a great multipurpose batting if you don't have a specific scenario/use/climate in mind. The 20% poly adds just a touch of loft, it will resist wrinkles a little bit better than 100% natural fibers, it will be nice and washable (same with cotton), but the poly will add some strength.

70/30 Cotton/Poly blend

The main difference between the 70/30 and the 80/20 blend is that the 70/30 contains a very thin layer of stabilization called a scrim. This is the batting that Quilters Dream really promotes as being good for longarm quilting. If you carry this option, know that it's a very durable batting but it lacks some of the initial softness and drape that the 100% cotton and 80/20 blends have. I've used both and like both, but I prefer the softness of the 80/20 and don't think it's necessary to keep both stocked.

100% Polyester

Poly gets a bad rap and I can see why. I’ve used a 100% poly batt with a high loft and low quality in the first quilt I made. It was NOT a good experience! It was bunchy with an inconsistent loft. It was an individually wrapped package from a discount store. I didn't know any better! :)

Quilters Dream happens to make a very lovely 100% poly batt that mimics cotton. The fibers are so fine and smooth that quilting cotton actually adheres to it a bit, much like cotton batting does. I recommend using the QD poly batt for the warmth if it'll be used in a cold climate, or if a client wants greater loft, or if the price is a factor as it's the least expensive option. It won't shrink when laundered. It's less "breathable" but will still move and drape without being stiff. I really like how quilting stitches look using QD poly! It resists wrinkles when folded more than with natural fibers. If the color of the batting is important, their poly options are white (vs. the natural look of unbleached cotton) or you can buy it in black, which helps enrich dark fabrics.

Wool

Wool is a great choice for a natural fiber that is really warm but is also lightweight, breathable and has a great loft. I love wool batting but because my clients don't ask for it often, it's one that I will special order if needed.

Other brands

Because I do allow my clients to provide their own quality batting, I’ve had the occasion to use others. In particular, I really like the Hobbs 80/20 and have also had great experiences with their Tuscany line of options, too.

Next, meet Molly Kohler of Lovely Threads • I have loved creating and designing as long as I can remember. I made my first quilt at the age of twelve and didn’t stop making and creating my own designs. I graduated from Utah State with a BS in Interior Design which has been a great background for quilting. In 2004 I purchased my longarm and have loved helping quilters finish their projects ever since. When I’m not quilting, I’m running my three kids to their sporting practices and events. There is nothing better than cheering them on while sitting on or under a handmade quilt. She can be found on Instagram @mollylovelythreads

My favorite batting is 100% Bamboo from Winline Textiles. It looks a lot like the 80/20 batting, so many of us have used for years but it adds one thing that the cotton poly blend does not have, and that is drape. This means your quilt will have a maximized cuddle factor. I recommend it for almost all quilts but especially baby quilts, quilts that you are going to throw on the couch and cuddle with, and any quilt with minky backing. There is nothing worse than spending extra dollars on a super soft backing only to have a stiff quilt. I also like that I can add a lot of machine quilting to a quilt and still have it feel soft and flowy when I use bamboo batting. As a bonus, bamboo is a sustainable resource!

For years over 90% of the quilts I quilted were filled with an 80% cotton, 20% polyester blend batting. I have carried both the Hobbs and Winline brands, and like them both. I switched over to Winline after discovering their headquarters were only a 30 minute drive from my home. This cuts down on shipping costs for me and I love supporting local companies. I have found their products to rival any other large and reputable brand of batting.

Wool batting is another great choice for quilts! I have had great success with both Quilters Dream wool and Hobbs Tuscany. Quilters love wool batting because it maintains its loft. That means your quilt will have a little bit of a puff to it after it is quilted. This highlights the quilting and adds depth to the texture of the quilt. On top of that wool is very insulating yet still breathable.

I have a few customers who still prefer polyester batting.

WHAT TO AVOID:

When I first started quilting I thought I could save money by using cheaper batting. And guess what, you can. But there are good reasons not to cut corners on batting. As a longarm quilter I am willing to use whatever batting my customer brings. However, the more budget friendly battings have some qualities that make them difficult to work with. Inexpensive or very old battings tend to fall apart or tear as they are loaded onto my quilt frames. It takes some gentle tugging to load a quilt top with the batting, and you want your batting to hold up to handling. I would imagine that a batting that does not hold up well to a little pulling and straightening on a quilt machine, will not hold together well after the quilt is finished, used and washed.

HOW PURCHASING BATTING FROM YOUR QUILTER SAVES YOU MONEY… If you are shipping your quilt to a longarm quilter, do not spend extra money shipping batting. Buy from your quilter and save yourself that initial cost.

Most quilters sell batting by the yard off a roll which means you will most likely be buying less batting than if you bought a precut piece.

I think the shrinkage with bamboo is similar to the 80/20. I have a couple quilts with bamboo that have been washed a couple of times and they look great. I wish I had a quilt that was several years old with it that I’ve washed a million times but I don’t. So far I love it. Fold lines are much more minimal than with cotton/poly. Everyone that I have convinced to try it, keeps using it. I notice a huge difference in the quilts we have hanging out here. I definitely go for bamboo to cuddle with! I’m now selling more of it than 80/20.

Next up, meet Kimie Tanner, she can be found at On Williams Street where she designs modern quilt patterns with her sister, Missy, specializes in custom quilting, and educates others on quilting. Kimie has been quilting for 16 years. She designed and finished her first quilt when she had her first child, and has been hooked ever since. Her focus was on quilt design and custom quilting. She is self taught and started on a domestic machine. A few years ago, she was able to purchase a longarm and has taken the opportunity to really explore all the possibilities of custom quilting, using the quilting as an additional design element in the top. You can see all the projects they are working on on Instagram, @onwilliamsstreet and explore their video tutorials and available quilt patterns on their website. www.onwilliamsstreet.com

My favorite batting is Hobbs Tuscany Cotton/Wool Blend. It's 80% cotton and 20% wool. Hobbs is the only company I've found that makes this combination. The technical details, it can be quilted up to 4" apart and does shrink a little. It is machine washable and when you wash it is where the magic happens.

On the surface, this batting doesn't seem much different than a cotton/poly or cotton. It is a little lighter weight, like the cotton/poly. It also has a little more loft than a regular cotton. When I first quilted a sample, I wasn't expecting much difference, but was pleasantly surprised. The first thing I noticed was that it quilts beautifully. My machine just glided across the quilt and stitches looked great. I'm not sure if it's completely due to the batting, but my first quilt that had just spot on tension (tested with a gray thread in the bobbin and yellow on the top) was done on a cotton/wool blend batting. The lighter density of the 100% cotton also gives the quilting very nice definition. All of these things bumped this batting up to the top of my favorites before I had ever even used the quilt made with it. After the quilt was done and got washed for the first time, the results cemented this batting into my number one spot. When it came out of the dryer (oh yes, it's even machine washable and can be thrown in the dryer, I do use low heat though on my quilts), it got super snuggly. The more I wash it, the softer it seams to become. The little bit of wool also adds in just enough warmth. The quilts made with cotton/wool have become quick favorites for anyone to grab when sitting on the couch.

The last thing that makes this batting so fabulous is that it isn't priced so high, to use regularly. It is a little more than a cotton batting, but not as much as a wool batting. It really is a great all around option that would work well in any application.

Kimie’s amazing work!! I love the detail in her work, and that cotton/wool blend is fabulous!!

So much great info and batting’s to try, right!?!?! Excited to share with you my thoughts.

Lastly, my name is Leisha Farnsworth, and this is my little quilty place. www.quiltingit.com it began as a way to share my work, client quilts, and sell my pantograph designs and circle rulers. It’s exciting for me to add an education section. I hope this will be a great resource for each one of us. Please know that these are our own thoughts, and you may have found something great that works better for you! Wonderful!! More than anything let’s learn together.

I’ve been sewing since I was a child, when my mom taught my sister and I to make scripture bags. But I fell I love with quilting in my early 20’s. I started longarm quilting in the summer of 2005, and the rest is history. I quilt custom and edge to edge, and love what I do!! I love how the quilting industry is ever evolving and I truly believe there is room for all creative types. Be creative, and share it with the world, there is room for you! I started co-designing quilting pantograph’s in 2014 with Urban Elementz. Last year I added some solo designs, and designed my Circle2 machine quilting circle rulers. Available in my shop. I’ve also taught one on one, and group machine quilting classes. Dreaming and doing! I can be found on Instagram @leishakaye

Batting can drive you batty, haha!! That is if you don’t use the best quality, like we’ve already discussed.

I started using Winline Textiles 8020 cotton poly batt day one! And, it’s what I use the most. I love it!! My clients love the quality and price point. It’s thicker than the Hobbs 8020, that clients have brought in. (Hobbs is still an excellent choice) It’s a great all around batting. It washes and dries great, leaving that crinkled snuggly look. Because it’s what my clients use the most, that’s what I’ve always had on hand. I do also have Hobbs Heirloom wool, which I love, and have used several times when I’ve double batted a quilt…more on that in a minute. I also carry bamboo from Winline Textiles, the same bamboo that Molly loves. I need to put it in one of my own quilts, after hearing her raving reviews! Because it’s priced higher, my clients prefer the 8020. Note: Winline Textiles is our wholesale batting supplier, who is out of Ogden Utah. LuAnn is great to work with, and she goes to several quilt shows nationwide, you just may be able to find her at the next quilt show or market you attend. The cotton poly I carry in two sizes, 96” and 120”. They are actually a little wider than that, like Jess mentioned above. The wool is 108” wide. The bamboo is also 96” wide. Quilts can typically shrink when washed/dried 2”-4”. If you dry wool, do it on a air fluff setting for less shrinkage. I actually don’t wash my quilts very often, unless they need it. If you leave your quilts folded too much, crease lines can occur in the batting. I’ve heard it’s less of a problem with bamboo. My double batted quilts are okay folded, they don’t have much of a fold line when opened up. You could also store your quilts rolled, instead of folded. I do have a black 8020 batting, which I only use if the entire quilt is mostly black, including the backing.

Double batting • why and which to use? I’ve seen several different combinations of double batting’s used…try it, and you’ll see which ones you like. I do NOT recommend doing a double batt with just cotton, or 8020, or bamboo. It makes them stiff. The purpose of doing a double batt is to add definition to the quilting and loft to the quilt. My favorite combo of double batting is a 8020 cotton poly base with the Hobbs heirloom wool on top. I want more of the loft to show in the top of the quilt, not the backing. I’ve seen quilters use two wool layers, or two of their favorite lofty batting. My hopping foot has no problem going over two layers of batting, if you were to use two lofty ones, it may be tougher to quilt. Try it out sometime and see what you think. I’ve done double batts on a handful of my own quilts and some client quilts, when I’ve quilted custom. I know it’s costly to spend money on batting twice, but on some quilts, it’s so worth it! The following quilts I’ve used double batting. The quilting pops!

Like these…I used the same combo of double batting 8020 cotton/poly base and wool on top for each of these quilts. I learned that from my good friend Linda Hrcka from The Quilted Pineapple.

Made by me, pattern is Chic Country quilt by Sew Kind of Wonderful. My Circle2 rulers can quilt all those curves.

Same combo of batting…you can see all the details just pop! Top quilt was a free tutorial on Sew Kind of Wonderful’s website awhile back, I think it was Mod Olive…and then I arranged it into this bigger block.

Pattern by Sisters and Quilters, their Apple Pie in the Sky tutorial on their blog, and then I added a few more blocks.

This amazing quilt was made by Beth! The double batting added so much goodness to this quilt!!! This is Whimsical Garden by Sue Daley. I wish you could run your hands along that lofty lovely texture!!

I hope you’ll give a double batting a try!!

Tips for double batting • I lay the 8020 layer down first, and let it drape to the floor, like it do with any other quilt. I do fold up what is sitting on the floor, back and forth accordion style. Then I lay the wool on top of that, lining things up on top of one another. The wool also drapes down, and I fold it accordion style and the lay it on top of the 8020. I don’t fold them together because I don’t want to have any bunching issues, plus it lays flatter. As I roll my quilt they unfold nicely. I also float my quilt tops, which means I baste them down, but don’t pin the bottom of the quilt top to the leader. This allows me to adjust the batting if necessary without having to unpin. It’s just easier for me for so many reasons, so that is the method I use. Let me know if you have any questions. Or share tips you may have. I do cut the two batts at the same width.

Just for a reference, I used my favorite Winline 8020 cotton poly on both of these wall hangings, that I quilted for Laser Cut Quilts last year for market. You can still get great quilting texture with any good quality batting.

I love what was mentioned above about getting batting from your quilter, vs sending a batt. Plus you’re supporting your quilter. If you have one that you love, and they don’t carry it, you absolutely should send it. I do highly recommend batting off the roll, I’ve had great success with it!! Bagged batting can have big problems. Folded bagged batting isn’t as bad as rolled bagged batting, but I would definitely open it up and see if you can get the folds to relax some. I’ve seen some quilters say they put bad bagged batting in the dryer for 10 minutes on low heat with a wet towel, to help with the folds or bubbles spots, however I haven’t used that method. So I can’t vouch for it.

I also price my batting’s double the wholesale cost, which is actually cheaper than the local quilt shops.

Each batting should have the recommended spacing for quilting. Like, quilted at least every 5”. Personally, I think batting and quilts look better quilted closer, than what is recommended.

It’s important to cut the batting bigger than the quilt top. I ask that the quilt backings are a minimum of 4” bigger on all sides than the quilt top, and so I cut the batting 6” bigger than the width of the quilt. 3” for each side. I like it smaller than the backing, so the batting doesn’t get caught in the machine wheels. The length doesn’t matter as much because it drapes to the floor, as far as it being too long and getting caught in the wheels. I do recommend that the batting is around 5”-6” longer than the length, because quilts stretch and grow. That’s also why batting should be wider than the quilt. If the quilt length is close the width of the batting (96”, 108”, or 120”) and I’m not quite sure if it’s long enough, I will open the batt and fold it the half the other way, so the length is able to be fully laid out and then fold the quilt in half, with the length stretched out on top of the batting. I don’t have tons of floor space, that’s why I fold it in half. If the quilt is not laying flat, and the batting is a little too close, I would cut the length of the batting. Normally when cutting batting off a roll you’re cutting the width of the quilt + 5” or 6”. I do base quilt tops close the the top edge of the batting, leaving about an inch, this insures that I will have enough in the length of the batting, especially when it’s close.

Molly mentioned above, some batting pulls apart easy. I’ve found it’s the old or cheap polyester batting’s that do that. I’ve very carefully laid batting like that onto the quilt backing ready to baste the top down and it just is falling apart. It’s almost as though it’s a bag of poly fill stuffing…haha! Actually, it’s no laughing matter. It’s difficult to use and quilt. Those batts will lump and create problems when washed and used. You’ll feel like there is no batting in one spot, and a lumpy bump in another. Please don’t use those!! Yes, polyester gets a bad rap, but if you get a bonded polyester batt, that’s great! It should stay together better because it’s bonded. Actually when I started quilting, we had this 120” wide roll of polyester batting that had a thin scrim on both sides. It quilted up so nicely, we loved it!! Unfortunately, when gas prices went up it was too expensive to ship, so it was no longer available. I wonder if there is something like that on the market now in a poly???

Piecing Batting’s • so, you like me may have tons of batting scraps that you may want to piece together. I wouldn’t piece a lot of little pieces together for a big quilt. That will create problems for the quilter, and may not lay flat. However, if you have a couple of scraps and you’d like to piece them for a table runner or a baby quilt, I suggest zig zagging them on your machine by slightly overlapping them…very slightly. Just enough that they are overlapped, less than 1/8th of an inch. The batting’s should be laying flat and butted up next to one another, not laying on top of one another as if you were sewing a seam. If so, that seam will be felt after it’s quilted. If you are going to piece your batting it should be cut straight, too. I’ve had some people hand stitch batting, especially if it’s a poly batting, but I can’t promise that will hold up well. The zig zag is recommended. I don’t know that I would recommend a lofty batting be pieced, because it will lose its loft along the seam, and it may show in your quilt. Please do ask your quilter before piecing batting. While using pieced batting is doable, it’s not preferred. Your quilter may not be willing to use it.

I hope you’ve gained a wealth of information, I know I’ve learned some things, and I’m excited to try that wool cotton blend, that Kimie shared with us!! I’ve tried to touch base on everything I can think of when it comes to batting. I have not used every brand, but I hope with the variety of info we’ve shared with you, you have some ideas of what you’d like to try. Please tell us what you love to use or tips you have in the comments below.

Thanks for stopping by, please keep checking back for more info on other machine quilting topics. I’m going to try to add links to the introduction to Machine Quilting 101 post, on each topic as it is covered. Hopefully that will make it easier, if you’d like to bookmark that page in your browser.

Thanks again!! Happy quilting!